Science writer Gina Kolata takes a look at Gary Taubes’ Good Calories, Bad Calories in The New York Times.

She likes his critique of the flimsy science that undergirds much conventional wisdom about healthy eating, but isn’t convinced that the only reason the low-carb revolution hasn’t saved us from Fatdom is that we’re junkies who keep going back to the cookie jar.

Being hypoglycemic, I tend to join Taubes in blaming pretty much everything on sugar and refined carbs. That includes my weight, my mood, my occasionally morbid worldview, and pretty much any mishap that might occur between dawn and sunset and sunset and dawn.

But the problem with Taubes’ “one true diet” is the same problem as with any dietary restriction: It isn’t easy to eliminate a particular class of foods from your diet — a tasty class no less — when the rest of your culture is indulging on a regular basis. It fights nature.

Beyond which, “one true diet” — well researched or not — will never “fix” us. We eat and overeat for a million reasons. Our bodies and their chemistry are unique. Our experiences are unique. Taubes may speak some truth, but he can’t hope to explain everything. We shouldn’t expect him to.

We have to do the work ourselves. Somehow, we have to learn how to have a piece of chocolate cake every so often without going haywire. It tastes like heaven; to say no forever would be hell. We must make room for the occasional Cannolli. And peach ginger cobbler. And strawberry chocolate gelato. And lavender macaroons choco tacos lava cakes Boston Creme pies oatmeal cookies peanut butter cups… $$$%@#@@!!!!!

Time for some yoga.